The way the story goes, back in the day in Italy’s Puglia region, any permanent dwelling was subject to hefty property taxes. To dodge the bill, landowners found a workaround: trulli. Built in stone but without mortar, these huts allowed villagers to lop off their roofs when the tax man rode into town, and claim the structures were unfinished, or ruins. Once the inspectors left (empty-handed), the roofs were reinstated.

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Architectural designer Andy Coltart’s son lives in Puglia, so when Coltart was asked to design a wine cellar for the owners of this Te Matau-a-Māui Hawke’s Bay home, those trulli came to mind. The cellar sits in the front yard of their Tuki Tuki Valley property. It’s encircled by lavender with a tussocky edge, which adds a bit of theatre to the act of fetching a bottle. “It’s not just about grabbing one from a cupboard,” says Coltart. “It has its own life, a bit of drama.”

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Built by Pete Barbara and Davis Norman at BNL Construction, the result is a reinterpretation, rather than a replica. It’s clad in stone from a quarry just down the road, using small pieces to create the design’s curves. Unlike a traditional trullo, this one’s not coming down anytime soon, so consent demanded more than mortar-free construction. Behind the handcrafted exterior lies a modern concrete-block wall with cavity and waterproofing. Initially, Coltart sealed the cellar with a double-glazed door, but concerns over the goods stored inside prompted the addition of Corten steel doors. Mounted on parliament hinges, they fold neatly back against the stonework.

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Riffing on tradition, a slim window flares towards the interior like a medieval arrow slit, widening within to give an archer room to draw their bow. Above, a white cement cap with a plaster finish allows warm air to escape without letting water in. Over the entrance, lighter stones form a double-S motif. Traditionally, this would have been the designer’s signature. “But I thought, bugger that,” laughs Coltart, instead immortalising the owners’ initials.

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Inside, wines are displayed on custom racks designed by Coltart. Each row is identified by a small shield linked to a digitised catalogue. The thick walls naturally regulate temperature and humidity, but there’s also a hidden chiller on hand for emergency chardonnay cooling. Overhead, dried grape vines have been woven up the ceiling, spiralling towards the peak of the roof in one final flourish.

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The whole thing is beautiful, if a little mad. “You could absolutely get laughed out of the room for trying something like this,” Coltart smiles, “but these were great, brave clients.” The result is a tiny piece of architecture that’s equal parts wine cellar, folly and sculpture. One that transforms the simple act of opening a bottle into an occasion.

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